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When I put together my Five Best picks for serums with sodium hyaluronate, I included one that claimed to be just pure sodium hyaluronate by Mango Madness. Many of you chimed in with finds of high concentrate sodium hyaluronate products and so I began to do some digging around and, to my dismay, found that a formula containing, say 75% sodium hyaluronate (a claim made by Peter Thomas Roth) would be a physical impossibility. In talking to formulators, we found that it takes VERY little actual HA to create an effective gel. Most skincare formularies recommend HA be used at a rate of .01% to 1%. Anything more results in a useless, thick goo. Imagine making Jell-O but only using 1/10th the water and you will get the idea. We thought it would be instructive (not to mention fun) to put manufacturers claims to the test. So, how do they get away with it? Well lets imagine there is a company called HA World that claims to be using a hyaluronate solution at a rate of 75%. It is most likely 00.75% (less than one percent). But given that it's the only active, HA World can stretch the truth and say it is 75%.
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